About every 100 feet (or so it seems) along the marina front in downtown Cabo San Lucas and along the main boulevard Marina all day and all night are the tireless hawkers of those dreaded time-share condos. There is no way for my sister and I to escape as our hotel sits on the edge of the marina and the shortest route to shops and dining is a direct route past these ever-flattering high pitch salesmen (We only encountered one woman and actually bought our sunset cruise through her as she was not pitching to us.)

It was a monumental chore to keep my humor with them and put on a smile while politely ignoring them. They werent rude. They were just doing their job. None of them ever tackled me to the pavement or ran after me into a bar :-) But had I stopped to talk to each one I would have had 9999 maps by the end of 8 days!

And, so our late afternoon forays in to find libations became a test of wills. Ah, Diane, cant we just go all the way around the back side of our hotel and go the long way around?, I would whine. No! was always my sister's answer. She was stronger than I and had more fun telling them no. (I also let her do all of the market bargaining when we travel together :-) )

Happy hour, attitutide adjustment aka Guacamole time! Time to replace into the body what the sun has sucked out.

Along the marina front you will find Margaritavillas where eye-popping monstrous margaritas (the biggest in town) are the topic of conversation amongst the tables along the pathway. Pretty good appetizers and a mariachi band serenades every evening.

The first afternoon we plopped down at Carlos &Charlies on the Boulevard. This belongs to a chain of popular casual resturants and racuous night spots all over Mexico (Senor Frogs, El Squid Roe, El Shrimp Bucket, et al). First things first - water for me. The waiter sets down one of these plastic contraptions called a 'yard' (actually only 18 inches high) in front of me. Ah, excuse me? What's this? confusion on my face. Si, senorita, agua minerale. So be forewarned - if you dont ask for a small drink you will get a yard. Printed on the glass - WARNING - Drinking a yard may enhance the appearance of others. The establishment will not be held responsible. The only thing looking good to me after a yard of anything would be Los Banos!

The marina and boulevard of Cabo are loaded with bars and restaurants. Some such as Cabo Wabo (excellent appetizers here, BTW), Kokomo, Squid Roe and Giggling Marlin while serving dinner are primarily dance clubs and dont get hopping til after 10 pm. Way past my bed time :-) Cabo Wabo is owned by California rocker Sammy Hagar and features some serious rock. The Marlin is a bar where the waiters put on a show and hang patrons upside down on a fish hook like bagged marlin. Squid Roe has a 3-story warehouse look where everyone goes and dances to a variety of music. When the cruise ships are in town they all head here.

Where did I like to hang of an evening? A small outdoor bar along the marina called Nowhere Bar. Tuesday nights 8-10 pm ladies drink free - although you had to go up to the bar to get it. Only the paying patrons got table side service.

Thursday evening our guacamole time was aboard ship. We broke down and bought sunset cruise tickets on a large yacht. Most of the ticket holders were guests of the time-share companies. Tickets cost $39 U.S. for a two hour cruise with unlimited drinks (beer, margaritas, soda) and munchies served to your table. It was a pleasant cruise up along the coast of the Sea but the sun sets behind the town and hills. If the boat had been out on the Pacific side we could have seen the sun melting into the waters but I imagine its much too rough for as we neared Land's End where the ocean meets the sea it was quite a rocking experience.

To prove that life is what happens to others while you are in the bathroom, my sister informed me that she saw two sharks on our cruise while I was availing myself of the facilities. :-(

Various sunset cruises are available from the Cabo marina - pirate ships, catamaran dance parties, sedate yacht cruises. All about $30 - $40 per person. During the day some of these same companies offer snorkeling trips for about the same price.

Cynthia Kilian in Woodstock, Illinois USA