Venice's riches are renowned. Although there is plenty to buy, most of it is made somewhere else--except glass. One visit to any of the famous glassworks on the island of Murano, such as that of Gino Cenedese, (Glassworks Factory Showroom, 48A Fondamenta Venier, Murano, 739-877), should satisfy the desire to witness how Venetian glass is blown. Then, for real purchases, head for two of the oldest, most reliable establishments in town: Pauly &Company (Ponte dei Consorzi, Piazza San Marco) and Salviati and Company (195 San Gregorio). These fairylands of glass have won medals for excellence and produced glass for royal households and many heads of state. Although Pauly's three branches are conveniently located on San Marco, a tour of the Ponte dei Consorzi headquarters, with its demonstration furnace, is de rigueur. Products range from glistening glass beads to complete sets of crystal goblets, hurricane lamps, and enormous chandeliers. Prices are fair, and shipping is reliable. For a change of pace, make a beeline for Gianni Cavalier's (2863A San Marco) tiny shop in a corner of Campo Santo Stefano, near the San Marco side of the Accademia Bridge. Cavalier, a well-known restorer and gilder who creates carnival masks and handsome frames, has become an important supplier of carved angels and cherubs. As such, Cavalier admits to being a caretaker of a dying art. He smiles shyly when clients exclaim that his magnificent creations could easily pass for ancient relics. The angels, which mix effortlessly with collections of antiques, start at about $70.

Norelene, Campo San Maurizio, for hand printed velvet, silk and cotton to be used as clothing or to be displayed.

M Art Objects, specializes in antique patterns.

Il Coccio, on Salizzada dei Greci near San Marco, for beads made decades ago of Murano glass.

Mondonovo, on the Ponte dei Pugni, for carnival masks.