RESTAURANTS

The best way to know if some of the newer, more modern cafes are popular with the locals, who know their bars, is to observe the number of bicycles parked in front. Some suggestions: Cafe Esprit, on Spui; Cafe de Jaren, on Nieuwe Doelenstraat; Puccini, on Stallstraat and Kantjil en de Tigger, on Spuistraat.

Stedelijk Museum cafe, Paulus Potterstraat 13, a who's who of international art gathers here, overlooking the sculpture garden.

Die Port van Cleve, N.Z. Voorburgwal 178-180, next to the old main post office. Opened in 1870, this is a homey place offering everything from a good drink to a fine meal at reasonable prices.

Bols Taverne, Rozengracht 106. Popular with locals as well as visitors for a really Dutch atmosphere. Good service and a variety menu. Prices start at about $10.

Some of Holland's finest restaurants are in city hotels. One is the Kersentuin in Amsterdam's Garden Hotel.

Grancafe Klein Wiener, Utrechtsestraat 135. The city's most eccentric cafe dominated by an enormous pipe organ and a water-spouting trout-shaped chandelier. Wad screens surreal flicks produced by the owners.

Hoppe, 18-20 Spui Street, one of Amsterdam's most popular brown cafes which really is a Dutch small pub, and are the very heart and soul of the city. Dates back to 1670 and is so popular people spill out onto the sidewalk.

Cafe 't Gasthuys, Grimburgwal 9, just a few tables downstairs, and a bar, but there's more room on the small balcony. Known for its food: plates of ham and sausages. Inexpensive.

The Keyser, behind the Concertgebouw, is a hangout for music lovers and artists. Open from 5 to midnight only. Inexpensive.

Cafe Heuvel, on the corner of Speilgracht and Prinsengracht, very small, with dark paneled walls and maybe half a dozen tables but truly charming and homey. Inexpensive.

Eijnand Fockink, Pijlsteg 31, is a 300-year-old brown cafe (pub) famous for its collection of liqueur bottles bearing the portraits of every mayor of Amsterdam since 1591! Inexpensive.

Keyzer Bodega, across from the Concertgebouw.

d'Vijff Vlieghen, (Five Flies), in five higgledy-piggledy houses dating from 1627, a popular restaurant for many years.

Continental Bodega, Lijnbaansgracht 246. Open from 4 pm until midnight,k packed with Amsterdam's executive crowd, sipping wine and nibbling tapas.

Cafe Americain, Leidsekade 97, in the American Hotel, is an Art Deco landmark and former haunt of Mata Hari, with an outdoor cafe in summer. Amsterdam's most celebrated literary cafe. $22 per person.

De Trechter, 62-63 Hobbemakade; (20)671-1263. Has one Michelin star, only a handful of tables and does not serve lunch. Must call well in advance for reservations. A six-course meal about $60.

Bodega Keyzer, van Baerlestraat 96; (20)671-1441. A wonderful old Dutch-style bistro/brasserie next door to the city's famed Concertgebouw concert hall. Particularly good for seafood. A favorite of concertgoers and performers. Dinner for two from $65.

Oesterbar, Leidseplein 10; 263463. Nothing fancy, and often crowded, but has the best seafood in town. Where sole is cooked 100 different ways. An Amsterdam institution for more than 50 years. Dinner for two from $50.

Dikker &Thijs and Prinsenkelder, Prinsengracht 438-444; 626-7721. Have been around since 1915. Upstairs, Dikker &Thijs is formal and French. Downstairs, the Prince's Cellar opens onto the canal, with beamed ceiling and hearty fare. Dinner for two from $85 upstairs and $45 downstairs.

Christophe, Leliegracht 46; 625-0807. Has one Michelin star. New and very good. Southwestern French cuisine with Spanish and Italian influences. Has one Michelin star. Three-course meal $41.

Beems, Rokin 74-76; 624-2582. A brasserie and deli with takeout. It's sleek, chic and trendy, but closes at 8 pm. Dinner for two from $40.

Bordewijk, Noordermarkt 7, 624-3899. A lovely establishment with a well-conceived menu and delicious food. Moderately priced.

Eten Op Z'n Hollands, Zeedkijk #35; 638-1165. It's in the middle of the red-light district and run by an elderly gentleman who is wonderful to talk to and works very hard preparing native Dutch dishes, which are hardy and wonderful. $5-$13 per person.

Excelsior, Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8; 623-4836. In the Hotel de l'Europe. Has one Michelin star. French cuisine. Some consider this the top restaurant in Amsterdam. About $52 per person.

De Gouden Reael, Zandhoek 14; 623-3883. In a lovely island setting a few minutes northwest of town. A small, casual brasserie that's good for people watching. Menu reflects a specific region of France. About $40 per person.

Le Restaurant Tout Court, Runstraat 13; 625-8637. Elegant French cuisine put out by one of the best chefs in Holland. A three-course dinner $26.

Vasso, Rozenboomsteeg 12-14; 626-0158. Northern Italian cuisine served in a country kitchen atmosphere. About $40 per person.

De Goudsbloeum, 315 Prinsengracht, in the Hotel Pulitzer complex; 523-5235. The city's most romantic restaurant with its gabled setting flowered garden patio and walkway and views along two canals. $52 per person.

Keyzer, 96 Van Baerlestraat; 671-1441. Located in the museum district; a turn of the century restaurant that is a favorite of classical musicians from the nearby concert hall. $26 per person.

Bols Taverne, 106 Rozengeacht; 624-5752. A 17th century stepped gable fish house that is among Europe's finest seafood restaurants. $37 per person.

Beddington's, 6-8 Roelof Hartstraat; 676-5201. Features a marvelous blend of French and Japanese cuisine. $39 per person.

De Engelbewaarder, 59 Kloveniersburgwal; 625-3772. This is about the gloomiest and perhaps most authentic of Amsterdam's brown cafes, which are meant to be dark and gloomy, to preserve an artistic mood! $16 per person.

Wildschut, 1-3 Roelof Hartplein; 676-8220. The city's liveliest cafe. A see and be scene with the atmosphere and feel of a 30s film! $22 per person.

De Jaren, 20-22 Nieuwe Doelenstraat; 625-5771. New and popular modern cafe. $21 per person.

Royal Cafe de Kroon, 17 Rembrandtplein; 625-2011. Trendy, modern, new restaurant with good food. $25 per person.

Admiralty, in the new Grand Hotel, 197 Oudezijds Voorburgwal, 555-3111, has become an instant hit. Its kitchens ae supervised by Albert Roux of Le Gavroche fame, who is London's only three- Michelin-star chef. Dinner for two $135.

Het Tuynhuys, 28 Reguliersdwarsstraat; 627-6603, A very good sophisticated place with a continental menu, in the renovated, elegant interior and courtyard garden of a centuries-old house. Dinner for two $80.

Sahid Jaya, 26 Reguliersdwarsstraat; 626-3727; is one of the city's newest Indonesian restaurants and has become popular. Has a wonderful 14-dish dinner. Dinner for two $70.

Le Garage, 54 Ruysdaelstraat; 679-7176, is the place to be seen. Local celebrities flock there for people-watching, but the food is so good that it claims your attention from people-watching. Must make reservations to get in. Dinner for two $70.

Cafe Americain, American Hotel; 623-4813, a local favorite, serving Dutch and miscellaneous continental food, including light dishes and a cold buffet plus famous pastries. Dinner for two $55- $65.

Dikker &Thijs, Prinsengracht 444; 625-8876, an Amsterdam tradition, in three parts, elegant dining room upstairs, brasserie on the ground floor and French and Dutch specialties, $45-$70 for dinner for two.