If you are taking A-1 between Milano and Roma - One of the places my mother liked best - she was 79 then - is just a few minutes from the Modena Nord exit on A-1. It's Arnaldo's Clinica Gastronomica in Rubiera. The rooms are quite nice and not too expensive and the restaurant - well, anyone who has the courage to call itself a Clinica Garstronomica must be great. We've stayed there a dozen times and and I promise you'll enjoy it. Telephone - (0522) 626124 or best to just send a fax asking for rooms and restaurant reservations (0522) 628145. Reservations are a must, especially to dine - it's always full at dinner. English is somewhat limited, but there will be somone in both the hotel and restaurant who can help you. A great night to stay there is on Friday, as Saturday morning is the local market in town. This is a quite wealthy town and the stores reflect that. Turn right as you leave the front door, then right at the first street - two blocks down on the right is one of the most beautiful 'tiny' churches in Italy. As in most towns in this area, the walking is all flat. Best of luck, Bill Sutherland PS - as you drive in this area, look for signs with a wheel of Parmesano on them. Turn in anywhere you see one and try the cheese at one of the local farmers who sell retail. They will cut you any size you want and even vacuum pack at most places. Another specialty of this area that most farmers sell is Nocino, a liquor made from walnuts - most excellent.