If there on a Sunday, the Mariachi Mass at Mission San Jose. Call 210/932-1001 for the Mission Information Center.

Market Square -- Mi Tierra Bakery and Cafe for breakfast, and pralines La Margarita for lunch or dinner.

King William Historic District - 25 blocks of beautiful restored Victorian-era manions, once the homes of wealthy German merchants. Close to downtown. The San Antonio Conservation Society headquarters at 107 King William (210/224-6163) has walking tour guides in a brochure rack.

Institute of Texan Cultures...see the multi-media history show about the 27 cultural and ethnic groups of Texas. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9-5, 801South Bowie in Hemisfair Park in downtown area.

McNay Art Museum - lovely collection in a Mediterranean mansion, beautiful grounds. Tuesday-Saturday 10-5, Sunday 12-5. 6000 North New Braunfels St., 210/824-5368.

San Antonio Museum of Art is housed in a former brewery. Strong permanent collection.

If kids are along...the Cowboy Museum, 209 Alamo Plaza, 210/229-1257. And, the Buckhn Museum, 318 East Houston (downtown), 210/247-4000. There is also a Children's Museum, 305 East Houston (downtown), 210/212-4453.

Jim Cullum's Jazz Band at The Landing (on the River Walk); great fun.

The bar at the Menger Hotel, where Teddy Roosevelt recruited Rough Riders.

Of course, the River Walk/Paseo del Rio and the Alamo. There are various River Walk Tours by barge...try one at night, though they depart 9A-10P daily. Ticket outlets under Marriott Rivercenter and across from Hilton Palacio del Rio.

Texas Trolley Tours has a Historic Tour doing downtown, the mission and Market Square; or the Uptown Tour doing Brackenridge Park, San Antonio Museum of Art, McNay Art Museum. Can get off/on. Depart from Alamo Visitors Center, south of the Alamo on Crockett St. next to the Menger Hotel, 210/228-9976.

Lone Star Trolleys has an hour tour from Alamo Plaza, going to Market Square and the King William Historic District. 210/226-1706.

There are also horse-drawn carriage rides, departing from Alamo Plaza, 6P-midnight.

Brackenridge Park, which is home to the San Antonio Zoo and the Japanese Tea Garden. Miniature train, aerial sky ride, carousel, good zoo. Park is between I-37 and Broadway, Zoo at 3903 North St. Mary's. Japanese Tea Garden is near the zoo and was built in 1915.

San Antonio Mission Trail, along the San Antonio River. Mission San Jose is known as the queen of the missions.

La Villita is the historic district next to the River Walk and across from Hemisfair Park. Now full of galleries and restaurants. Main office is at 418 Villita St., 210/207-8610, walking guide available.

One of my favorite places to eat is Liberty Bar on Josephine St, very near downtown in an old-frame building that survived a flood and sits tilted on its site. Wonderful food, moderately priced, moderate casual dress. Also enjoy Biga, and understand there is now a Biga on the Riverwalk; upper moderate to expensive.

San Antonio is a great city to enjoy! I'm just an hour up the road in Austin and am always glad for a chance to visit there.

Sally Watkins