In the Centro Historico:

CafÈ Tacuba, Tacuba 28, 521-20-48 or 512-84-82 Located in a 17th century household a block from the Palacio Bellas Artes this venerable institution has been serving Mexicans since 1912. High crisp white vaulted ceilings are set off by colorful wainscots of talavera tile. Traditional Mexican cuisine served in delightful surroundings. Try their breakfast.

HostelerÌa de Santo Domingo, north of the ZÛcalo near Plaza de Santo Domingo on Belisario Dominguez. Moderately priced restaurant on the edge of the historic center. They make an outstanding version of chiles en nogada, roasted ancho chiles stuffed with ground spiced pork and topped with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds.

Los Girasoles, located on the Plaza Tolsa on Calle Tacuba adjacent to the National Art Museum. A nice cafÈ with outdoor seating on this relatively quiet plaza. Relax for lunch and ask your server to tell you the story of El Caballito the statue standing in the center of the plaza.

In the Zona Rosa:

La Fonda Refugio, Liverpool 166, 528-58-23. Reminiscent of the CafÈ Tacuba, serving traditional cuisine in a charming 18th century home. A long time favorite in this upscale neighborhood.

In the Polanco:

Hacienda de los Morales, Calle V·zquez de Mella 525, 540-32-25 A former hacienda dating from the 1500's (reputedly owned by Cortez' son) is definitely my favorite restaurant in Mexico City. Once you enter the grounds with its beautiful garden you'll forget your in the middle of one of the largest cities on the planet. Exquisite food and outstanding sevice. Expensive and formal.

In the ColonÌa Roma;

Restaurante Centro Gallego, Colima 194, 511-83-56, 207-60-13, 533-52-26.

This out-of-the-way restaurant in an area not frequented by tourists was a real treat I discovered in a review on the Internet. It serves as a social club for expatriate gallegos (Spaniards from the northwestern region of Galicia) and a restaurant specializing in the cuisine of that region. Our group had a delightful meal enjoying seafood, lamb, beef and poultry. This place is a gem but takes an effort to find.

In Coyoac·n;

La Guadalupana, just off the Parque Centenario, is a cantina where you can stop for a refreshment and botanas (snacks) while visiting this southern neighborhood.

These should be enough to keep you well fed during your stay.

John Rule San Diego, CA