Subject: Re: ROme rest. &shopping
Dear Gwen,

A few more ROme restaurant suggestions and shopping suggestions for ROme. Sandy in L A

Popi Popi, Via delle Fratte di Trastevere 45; 589-5167, is a trattoria/pizzeria in the heart of Trastevere, it is an unassuming, bustling place where families, young Romans and a few in-the-know tourists go for dinner. You will see lots of gorgeous women in short leather skirts, and plenty of men chatting on their phones while twirling their pasta. The antipasto table includes zucchini blossoms stuffed with anchovies and mozzarella and bruschetta with tomato or bresaola (a dried, cured beef) topped with arugula. There are 15 kinds of pasta. Stick to the basics, amatriciana or penne arrabiatta. There are 20 pizzas on the list (the oven is open to the restaurant), and the grilled steak is thin, tender and more flavorful than the American variety. An assortment of antipasta costs about $7 and can be split. Pasta costs about the same. Pizza runs from $7 to $12. The place really starts to warm up at about 9 p.m. Arlu, 135 Borgo Pio, 6868-936. A true gem, where owner-waiter Armando makes the salads and jealously maintains gastronomic purism and high standards for his 11 tables. Entrees from $9. Closed Sundays.

Giolia Mia, Via degli Avignonesi 34, a wonderful outdoor cafe in Vecchia Roma, for light lunches.

Babington's Tearooms, at foot of Spanish Steps is excellent for breakfast.

Best coffee in Rome: Caffe Sant'Eustachio in the Piazza Sant'Eustachio and Cafe Tazza d'Oro, on the Piazza della Rotonda.

Rome's Greatest Ice cream Emporium: Giolitti, on Via Ufficio del Vicario, a few streets from the Pantheon.

SHOPPING

Stores are closed between 1 pm and 3:30 pm.

Romans find the best fashion bargains at street markets. Follow the locals to the market in Piazza Testaccio, where designer shoes with the labels cut out cost as little as $40 a pair, or to the market in Via Sannio, near the Giovanni church, where an Enrico Coveri shoulder bag was recently on sale for $100.

Expensive shopping is around the Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna) including the Via Condotti, via del Babuino, via Vittoria, via della Croce, via Borgognona, via Frattina and via della Vite.

In the heart of the old city, surrounded by the ancient crumbling walls of the Jewish ghetto, is the firm of Limentani, (47 Via Portico d'Ottavio, 654-0686), a remarkable wholesale and retail dealer in silver and china, pewter, jewelry, crystal, and other objects. This is a family business, and owner David Limentani enjoys guiding visitors through the maze of catacombs where the goods are piled, proudly explaining his 16th-century heritage. Today the Limentani family manufactures fine china dinner sets with monograms and crests. The firm's most illustrious wares---those made for the Vatican, the White House, and assorted royal families and governments, grace the office walls. They also have a large inventory of Waterford, Richard Ginori, Rosenthal, Limoges, Riedel and Kosta Boda stock; as well as old Sheffield china; English and American silver; and marked silverplate salvaged from Italian ships. Whatever your heart desires, they can probably find for at least twenty percent off.

Across town, near the fashionable Via Veneto, the shoemaker Beppino Rampin (31 Via Quintino Sella, 488-2878), offers no deals. A consummate craftsman (he stepped up to his father's' bench in Padua when he was six years old), Rampin softly proclaims his shoes works of art. Proudly displaying thousands of wooden forms that duplicate clients' feet, he says his work is painless and swift. Primare, we measure; then cut the forms; then cut the finest Italian and German leathers to fit the forms. And then we sew. Presto! It takes three days to make a pair of men's shoes and one day for women's. With more than 150 designns, Rampin offers classic styles that range from lace-up business shoes to casual loafers for men, and for women, everything from elegant boots to patent-tipped, Chanel-style pumps that he pronounces good with pants. Ranging from $600 to $1,200 a pair, his shoes are hardly a bargain. But you're at the source, and what's a bargain, anyway?

Less expensive shopping is on the Via Colo di Rienzo, Via del Corso and Via Nazionale, and the small galleries and boutiques on the narrow lanes around the Pantheon, the shoe stores surrounding the Trevi Fountain.

Most in shopping areas: ThePorta Portese bazaar on Sunday (Via Portuense e via Ippoilto Nievo) and the Via del Corso area, which is lined with trendy boutiques and stores. Most open until 10pm.

Best handmade leather shoes: For women: Dal Company, 65 Via Vittoria. For men: Laodadeo, 58 Via Capo Le Case.

Coin, Piarrale Appio 15, a department store for high fashion at low prices. Coin has its own designers and stylish collections.

Mens' ties. Gioffer, via Frattina 118, is devoted entirely to ties made of quality materials and sold at low prices.

Cotton shirts. JCA, via Cola di Rienzo 183, is a boutique filled with cotton shirts at good prices.

Women's linen suits. Belsiana 19, via Mario dei Fiore, for inexpensive hand-finished linen suits as well as dresses, blouses and belts by local designers.

Hand-painted fabrics. Convertite 81, via delle Convertite 22, for hand-painted fabrics made into skirts and blouses.

Sweaters. Vittoria 3A, via Vittoria 3, for women's silk, cotton and wool sweaters at reasonable prices.

Postcards: No. 69A Piazza della Rotonda, a tiny shop with best postcards in Rome!

Rizzoli, on Largo Chigi for English-language books and magazines.

Ramirez, Via del Corso 73; Via Frattina 85/A. Shoes at reasonable prices.

Viroel, via del Tritone 75-78. Leather and suede wear

Piazza Fontanella Borghese, a rare and unique antique market. 24 stalls make up the market. How to get there: From the Spanish Steps turn onto the Via dei Condotti until it meets Corso Umberto (the long street stretching all the way from Piazza del Popolo to the Vittorio Emanuele monument). Cross the COrso and continue in the same direction until you reach the Via della Fontanella di Borghese, which opens into the Largo della Fontanella di Borghese and the actual site of the market, the Piazza. (Towering in the background is Palazzo Borghese, still the home of the Borghese family, which has been prominent in Rome's history since the 16th century.)

Porta Portese Flea Market, Open every Sunday 8 am to 2 pm. Get there around 7 am to get any real antiques. The clothing market at Porta Portese opens early weekday mornings. Mile-long sprawl of booths, tables and ground-cloth displays, sells everything from glassware and Etruscan relics to Arab carpets.

Piazza dei Campo di Fiori, for food, clothing, housewares, flowers. Vendors close up at 1 pm. Middle of medieval quarter, is Rome's oldest open market.

Via dei Giubbonari, near the colorful Campo dei Fiori market in the old city center, and VIa Ottaviano near the Vatiacan are shopping streets famous for their bargains.

Antica Drogheria Condotti, Via Mario del Fiori 24, natural, herbal scented shampoos and pampering skin treatments. Bath gels and oils are blended from rose, verbena and magnolia extracts.

Ai Monasteri, Piazza delle Cinque Lune, dispenses mixtures, natural and herbal, made in 20 monasteries throughout Italy. Particularly intriguing is the vast array of medicinal elixirs.

Via dei Coronari, the street of antique shops off the Piazza Navona.

Al Sogno, 53 Piazza Navona. Wonderful toy shop.

Il Fornaio, 5-7 via dei Baullari. Wonderful bakery.

Peppino, 82 via Mario dei Fiori, off Via Condotti. The barbershop of the Roman aristocracy.

Furla, 7 Via Torre Argentina, carries handbags and wallets with minimal decoration, madximum style at good prices.

Pineider, 68 Via Due Macelli is the place for classic calling cards and boxed stationery in traditional white as well as vivid green.

Pagot, 90 Via del Gesu stocks vintage ephemera: greeting cards, school supplies and such rarities as gift cards made of wood veneer.

Massimo Maria Melis, 57 Via dell'Orso for ancient coins and cabochon stones that are fashioned into strong and simple gold jewelry.

Ai Monisteri, 76 Piazza delle Cinque Lune. Seven different monasteries supply the toiletries and comestibles here. Take home the scent of frutti di bosco in a bath oil.

Pisoni, 127-29 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, one of the world's greatest candle stores, has tapers and pillars in a choice of 43 colors. Their delicate number-shaped candles for topping birthday and anniversary cakes are a find.

Fabbroni Colombo, 69A Piazza del Pantheon, a tiny place packed with reproductions of ancient sculptures and pottery and thousands of postcards. This is the place to stock up on pictures of monuments in case your own photos don't come out.

Lion Bookshop, 181 Via del Babuini, for maps, guidebooks and advice all in English.

La Riggiola, 145 Via dei Coronari. One antique tile from here makes a handsome trivet. A few dozen compose a perfect entry hall floor, but beware shipping costs.

De Clercq &De Clercq, 50 Via delle Carrozze, sells handknit sweaters, scarves and bags of their own design.

Silvana Palaferri, 27 Via della Stelletta, custom boxes made up in decorative paper are the pride here. Purists insist on all white, the pope's choice.

Ditta Leone Limentani, 47 Via Portico d'Ottavia, in the former Jewish ghetto. If the hunt is what thrills you, plow through the chaos of pots, dishes and flatware and you will unearth everything from gas-stove lighters to Venetian glass.

Wonderful prints of Rome at reasonable prices can be found at Casali, by the Pantheon and at Di Cave, off Piazza di Pietra, behind Rome's stock exchange.

For pottery try Limentani, in the Ghetto across from the Portico d'Ottavia, a big warehouse store with everything from Venetian glass to rustic pottery at reduced prices.

On Via Sannio, along the side of the Coin department store is a morning market with bargains in clothes, shoes and accessories. Keep winding your way back to the used-clothes section to see some authentic Roman street life.