Richard, I've been to Safranbolu. We've driven to Safranbolu from Istanbul and then down to Ankara, not the other direction. It's a charming city, and is on the itinerary of a food tour I'll lead in Turkey this fall. It's known for the saffron fields surounding it and the quality of its lokum (Turkish delight), a type of candy. Many of the historic wooden mansions in town have been restored, so do some walking and have a look around. You might get there on market day. If so, be sure to look for spoons make out of a hardwood they call simsir. They make great presents are extremely functional in the kitchen.

We stayed in a hotel that once was a mansion. I'll never forget the magnificent breakfast, not only for the food but for the lovely and serene setting. The large room was almost completely taken up by a pool that was/is used simply to keep the building cool in the summer. Does the trick! Tables were placed in the small area (~8 feet) between the walls and the pool. The name of the hotel is Havuzlu Konagi, which means mansion with a pool. It's operated by the prestigious Turkish Touring and Automobile Assn.

Joan Peterson http://www.ginkgopress.com