Subject: Paris Restaurants
The Marais is always worth a wander, and we enjoyed spending time one evening in Village St. Paul, with its lanes and courtyards of antique and brocante shops, boutiques (one named Curious Women), and ateliers. We enjoyed a fine dinner in the unusual De Bouche à Oreille, a combination restaurant and brocante. All the décor is for sale, such as charming vintage teapots, compotes, or cups and saucers lining the shelves and old watercolors and oils gracing the mustard-glazed walls. Fragrant teas and unique flavors of jams de la maison tempt from the decorative shelves.

For our three course dinner, a bargain at 125 francs, we sampled salad with duck meat, walnuts, and roquefort; a smooth pâté of scallops flecked with red and green vegetables; savory tarts of chicken, leek and mushroom, or potato, lardons (smoky bacon cubes), and cheese; and finished with a warming cinnamon scented TarteTatin with crème fraiche.

Climbing Paris' highest hill made an alpine meal sound just perfect. La Pierrade, a friendly neighborhood spot, features raclette, a warming Swiss specialty. Seated by a lace-curtained window, we watched as our waiter brought over a wrought-iron contraption, fixed a half-moon of raclette cheese on it, and turned on the heating coils facing the cheese. Slowly, the cheese warmed, melted, and began to drip onto a plate. Perfect for smearing onto boiled potatoes, bread, and several kinds of charcuterie and enjoying along with cornichons and pearl onions. The delicious and filling order for 2 would have fed both of our husbands as well!

De Bouche a Oreille 15,Rue des Tournelles Tel: 0144 61 07 02 Paris 4 Metro: Bastille

La Pierrade 93 Rue des Martyrs Tel: 01 42 54 08 31 Paris 18 Metro: Abbesses

Anne VA