|Subject: Paris return notes Part 2|
Just a few more quick notes upon reflection.
We decided to take Bill's advice and make a plan and trash it! So
each day we picked a site, or a district and headed that way. We
walked, a lot. Never took the bus and seldom rode the metro. We
walked, and walked, and sat and watched and ate and walked. You get
the idea. And it rained every day but one but it did not matter since
we were prepared with travel umbrellas and well oiled leather shoes.
I have recorded a daily audio tape of activities and when I
transcribe it, I will post our plan later. But for now, restaurant
Preface: Our intent was not to be budget concious or foolish either. We had only definitely decided upon one restaurant and were armed with a list of others. We usually just went to whatever looked appealing by clientele, location, table availability, menu etc. We only struck out once. We had no reservations anywhere but never had to wait either. So on with it in no particular order of those that I can recall immediately from the 6th and 8th where we just seemed to end up at hungry time.
Pre Aux Clercs Brasserie, 6th, Rue Jacob corner. Just fair. Not recommended
La Caleche, very eastern edge of 7th, rue de Lille near St Peres. Very small, very wonderful. Small menu but great food and decent wine at a very fair price. Dinner for two, prix fix, with entree, le plat, desert and wine. $84 Highly recommended. We ate there twice! If the coquille st.jacques is on the menu, get it!
Chez Clement, several locations we discovered. This must be a small chain type establishment. We ate lunch at the one on St Michel square across from Ille de la cite (Notre Dame) and had very good food. Seafood selection was wonderful. Rotisserie is great. Service was terrible, the worst we had. Good value though. Don't let the appearance scare you away; not as expensive as it appears.
Cote Seine, 6th, 45 quai Grand Augustins near Notre Dame. Fred Melnick's (anamericaninparis.com) recommendation. Wonderful! Excellent food, service, comfort, clientele. No wonder Fred likes it so. We happened to drop Fred's name to the waiter and the proprietor, Serge, showed up to introduce himself and have a brief warm conversation. And Thomas speaks near perfect English. Again, dinner for two complete with a very good wine, $116. Excellent duck.
Le Bonaparte Brasserie, 6th, rue Bonaparte just N of St Germain Blvd. Rotten weather forced us inside but a very simple good meal with a wonderful server (unfortunately I cannot remember his name but he was Asian). Rick Steves recommendation as an alternative to Lipp, Deux Maggot, Cafe Flore and we would agree. Those places were very crowded, high priced and we just did not get the appeal. Much better view at Bonaparte in our opinion. Lunch with beers, $30.
Le Saint Amour, 8th, 4 rue de Rome. A great brasserie with a good view near St Augustins square and close to the large department stores of Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. Lively, great daily plat du jours, good wine, good food, great service. Little English but very patient and hard working waiters. My wife says try the egg dish, fried eggs in sauce with jambon, bread. Bargain!!! Wine and lunch and wonderful street view during a hail storm for $30.
E'cluse. several locations, a wine bar. Ours was in the 8th somewhere. Comfortable, good service, very excellent food. Some English. Our waiter was very competent in English until my wife requested her filet be prepared medium rare. Rare he understood, medium he got but trying to explain the in between was a lot of fun. He was very eager to learn English. A local jumped in and helped. Warning: the three salmon plate is wonderful but extremely rich. Pepto bismol was required. :) Again, good value and food for $100.
Cafe Metro. Ours was in the 6th at 67 rue Rennes next to the Saint Sulpice metro stop. There are others as well in other districts that we had seen and been interested in. Another lively brasserie with great plat du jour and service. Lots of fun. Highly recommended and a bit larger menu than most places with more variety.
Le Petit Zinc. 6th between St Germain Blvd and rue Jacob near St Germain church. EXCELLENT as Sandy mentioned. Great oyster selection and super seafood. Coquille St Jacques and swordfish were our choices. Best creme brulee yet according to my wife who must have had it 6 times! If you happen to have Laurence (Larry) as your server, you will have a treat-very limited English but so much fun. Tell him Rudy and Debra from North Carolina said bonjour and I am sure he will be totally confused. I don't think he ever understood where North Carolina was. A great late night dinner and very reasonably priced.
More to come. Hope this helps Beth, and others. Rudy in recovering from the cold snap coastal NC