Subject: Britain trip 2002
Debra Absolutely fell in love with Polpero on the south Cornish coast. In fact, anyone I meet who has been there feels the same way. We stumbled upon it after a day of driving from Salisbury/Stonehenge to the south coast and then along past Looe. We booked into a hotel near the car park at the top of the town (the streets are too narrow for vehicular access), planning on staying the night and heading off the next morning. After booking in to the hotel, we went for a walk down to the harbour, and that was it. We stayed for two days. It was the week before easter, and we believe that it is a popular holiday destination from easter onward- but we cannot tell what that means in terms of numbers of people and how it might affect the experience. For us in that week before Easter, there couldn't have been more than a dozen other tourists in town. Many of the villagers were out doing the last minute white washing of their walls and fences, we sat out on the harbour wall and watched the fishermen come in. At low tide,when the bottom of the harbour is empty, they choked up their boats to work on them, and at lunchtime, wives and children appeared, walking out on the floor of the harbour to bring lunch-little girls in wellington boots. We did little more than sit around the harbour for two days, just taking in the passing parade. There are some pretty stunning cliff paths, leading off either side of the harbour. Plenty of wonderful smugglers Inns. At one, the Crumpled Horn Inn, we were two of only eight people in the bar for an evening. The barman plied us with a variety of ales etc. When I asked if they had a local brew I could try, he produced a bottle with a plain gold crown seal and no label. He said it was the local apple cider ...It's called cripple dick, and it does. My wife had to hold my arm as we left the Inn and climbed the street back to our hotel, as I clutched a box with several bottles to take home to Australia. Years later, when friends visited the town on our recommendation, they specifically asked the locals, where can we find a hotel called the crippled dick. They fell about laughing and directed them to the crumpled Horn.

Following are some sites that have more info. Start with the first listed, and make sure you scroll down the menu on the left hand side to the photo gallery.

Also highly recommend that you visit the country around Cambridge. There are some fantastic up market B&B's out of Bury St. Edmonds, and you can visit all the old wool towns. These were the towns and villages that became very wealthy from producing wool in the late medieval period. Villages like Clare. Whole villages of Victorian architecture (black beams and white plaster). Bury St. Edmonds itself has a magnificent ruins (the Abbey), which if I remember correctly, was where the Magna Carta was signed. It is surrounded by stunning gardens, and has a cemetery with jaw dropping inscriptions on the headstones. Cannot locate a decent website for Bury St Edmonds, but you should also visit Ely Cathedral (site below), and of course Cambridge is an absolute must. This area to the north east of London is also recomended because the cooler air coming in from north east europe generally means that there is less mist and cloud than over the rest of england. Cheers Gavin (Sydney, Australia)