Subject: Amorgos, Greece
We adored Amorgos (8 nights) and also spent 4 nights on Serifos - another winner! Both are still like the old Greece - (not as quiet now as it's getting to be the tourist season) If you decide on Amorgos -- go to O'Nikos or dinner up in Lagkata, also Langada -- (spelled no less than 3 ways) or stay at Nicko's tiny hotel adjacent called Pagali -- very cozy, warm and inviting place as are all of those who work there (studios on top floor have small terraces w/ best views) all w/ air conditioning -- (abour $30/night or less US$) tel: + (30-285) 73310 or 73600. website: or email direct at: pagali (It was VERY hot in Greece this trip so be prepared.) -Hiking is superb - Monestary amazing and beaches on other side of island a must -- Ammoudi and Mouros are the best! The rock formations are incredible -- Also, Ag. Anna under the monestary is a lovely beach -- It has a tiny chapel perched near the water. Sorry, pix won't be developed until you're already there. We rented a car from Amorgos rentals in Aegaili (also spelled many ways ) We loved that part of the island. If you decide that Katapola is better for you, the studios opposite the port are prettier and quieter!!! (Aegiali and Katapola are the two port towns.)

We loved the trip - It has the Sifnos/Folegandros feel. Take the walk around the 3 towns from Aegiali round-trip - taking in the Churches --(all info., is easy to get on the island)

If you do go to Niko's place, say hi to Niko and Michael-Anne for Fred and me -- Michael-Anne (who works at Pagali is from America and can help if you need anything, but Nikos speaks English as do most others --)

Have a wonderful trip and let me know if you need any other info. Sorry this is a bit disjointed as we got home yesterday -- leaving Athens at 6am and flying through Frankfurt - I'm bushed and a bit punchy!!! It was, as always, a languid, sensual and emensely satisfying trip to Greece. We are restored!!!

One other thing: If you're overnighting in Athens and have time for 'night life' - there is a new section called Psiri, near Iroon Square, -- not far from Plaka (but get directions as it's tricky) -- It is like SoHo in NYC was 15 yrs ago and like the South End of Boston - undergoing renovations with some upscale shops and wonderful bars and restaurants - some w/ music -

We had a wonderful meal at Prosilion (I don't have the phone, but the website is: - Dimitres (sorry about spelling) our waiter, and the owner, Katherine, made this a memorable meal -- The food was superb - However - more chic than traditional except for the usuals -- Our plane was so early that we couldn't stay for the music - but I'm sure it was terrific. Walk around, you'll be amazed! Hope you and Carol have a safe and fantastic trip. I'll be anxious to hear all about it when you get back. Yasou, Susie