Subject: Umbria
Assisi is a must visit - the frescoes are some of the most beautiful in Italy.

We also enjoyed Gubbio, another medieval town perched on the slopes of Monte Ingino with wonderful artisans specializing in ceramics. Try the workshop of Leo Grilli, a craftsman who has managed to keep this ancient art alive. We had lunch at Villa Montegranelli, an interesting villa hotel just outside of Gubbio. The formal dining room was empty at lunch and we experienced the most sensational tasting menu. Somehow it never seems to be very busy and walking through this delightful town is a pleasure. There is a festival in May - Corso dei Ceri - which would probably be interesting to see. Enjoy coffee and a dolce at the Grand Caffe Ducale in the Piazza Grande before leaving.

Orvieto is another must see. The duomo is among the greatest of all Italy's Romanesque-Gothic cathedrals. If you are a photographer, arrive a few hours before sunset and the light reflecting on the front facade is spectacular.

And do not miss Todi - one of Umbria's prettiest hilltowns with striking views of the Tiber Valley. You must eat at Ristorante Umbria with a terrace overlooking the valley and a 'Nonna' cooking meat in an open hearth. Inexpensive. Stop for a gelati and spend some time in the Piazza del Popolo. If ceramics are your thing, a short drive to Deruta and you will find ceramics and majolica ware to suit every taste. The town itself is unattractive

We drove around Lake Trasimeno stopping at a market in Castiglione del Lago and also in Passignano sul Trasimeno but we were not impressed. The lakefront was not at all appealing and we have no idea why anyone would spend time here.

Felice Toronto, Ontario