we've been in Saturnia a few years ago. The hotel and spa are first class, looking from outside, and first class were the prices too: half a day at the pool costed about 9 euro per person. The free bathing area is just a hundred meters away, close to a bridge over the sulphur creek originating from the spa house. There are some waterfalls and shallow ponds of warm white water, not too smelly. The place was uncared, though, full of litter left by bathers, and there was a little crowd too (June). After our bath, peeling off our suits we discovered there was a fair amount of tiny red worms, probably carried by the water and trapped inside.... my shorts, being bigger in size, had a remarkable collection! So be warned! I'd suggest a quiet half day swimming in the warm pools in in spotless place, even if it's a bit expensive; there's a beauty farm too. And the smell is washed away in a flash, don't worry? Just for your info, the town of Saturnia, a bit uphill, has a very nice main square with one of the best restaurants in Maremma, but I can't remember the name. There are also deli shops with local specialties and pizza slices. The road to Saturnia is a bit narrow and there's plenty of turns, but the scenery is great.

Bye Paolo Trieste, Italy http://digilander.iol.it/travelziner