Last year we stayed in Moneglia, just north of Cinque Terre. We took the local train in the area - very easy and cheap to do. We stayed at Hotel Villa Edera (http://www.villaedera.com).

The hotel does not face the ocean, but has a pool and is a very short walk to the station. There is a pathway into the town, also a very short walk. We liked the town - just the right size with enough variety and very few Americans. The beach was loaded with Italians, but it was in mid-July. We definitely enjoyed our stay at the hotel - very typical of Italian beach towns.

I dragged by husband to Vernazza one day, and was glad we were not staying there. Unfortunately, tourism has left a bad mark on the area (sorry Rick Steves). I'm sure the views from the hills while hiking are beautiful. Having been to beautiful beaches farther south in Italy, we were not greatly impressed, but I suspect the mass of tourists, many college-age Americans with all that implies, contributed to our opinon of the place.

In 2000, we spend 4 nights in Camogli, just north of the Portofino Promentory. That is a wonderful example of a working fishing village, with a nice rock beach, and not croweded with gawkers. The Cenobio del Doge is a wonderful hotel. We found this a much more relaxing place. I suppose it is all about what you are looking for...

Ciao, Kristy S.F.