We did that trip both on and off the Glacier Express. There are two differences. First the Express is non-stop and there is about 3 changes on the regular trains. Second, the Express cars have Panoramic windows. If you want to stay put all the way to Zermatt, take the Express. I would not recommend the dinning car, bring your own wine and cheese and bread. We had no preference between the two different trains. It all depends on if you want to spend the extra money for the Express.

As far as hotels, we stayed at the Steinbock just about the train station in St. Moritz. Nice place with a good resturant. Have a good trip.

Greg