I'm usually shy about responding to Zine posts because of my limited
overseas travel experience (two trips, both to Italy). However, if there's
one thing I've done like a seasoned veteran it's consume gelato. I can only
image the pain of finding Vivoli's closed-up! Perhaps increased sampling of
the fine Tuscan wines might help dull the pain?
As for other gelato shops, Perche no!... is pretty good, but at least as
good is Gelateria Carabe (Via Ricasoli 60/r; tel. 055-289476).
I have a few restaurant recommendations, but I don't know if any are open in
1) Antico Noe (Volta di San Peiro 6/r; tel. 055-2340838) is known for
their hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop, but they also have a small trattoria
next door that serves wonderful, simple, Slow Food-style home cooking at
very reasonable prices
2) Di Vinus (in the Oltrarno at Via Dell'Orto 35/A; tel. 055-224148) is in
an out-of-the-tourist-hoards location. Wonderful food and wine, warm and
friendly service, although a little pricey.
3) Zibibbo (Via di Terzollina 3r, near the Careggi Hospital; tel.
055-433383) is run by Benedetta Vitali, the ex-wife of the owner of the
famed Il Cibreo. We didn't eat there (can you hear me kicking myself?),
but have heard and read many great things about it.
4) Fuori Porta (in the Oltrarno, not far from the Piazzale Michelangelo)
is a real nice trattoria connected to what is supposed to be one of the best
wine shops in Florence. Great lunch and light dinner fare, lots of great
wines, naturally. I think my wife and I were the only tourists eating there
(dinner, two years ago). I've never managed to go by the wine shop when it
was open, but it looks fantastic inside.