>First, we are considering buying an Italy Rail Pass. Any opinions?

Have you considered the kilometric ticket (allow 3000km total in 1 month at about 181 Euro for first class) ? It is often better than pass and one ticket should be enough for your journey for 2 people.

>We were told that if we want to request a non-smoking, first class compartment we needed to do that in advance.

It could be better but I believe that you'll find seat in non smoking first class anyway unless really peak days.

Ciao, Marco in Milan - Italy

Mod's Note: Jim, the downside of the KM ticket is that you have to line up at the ticket window before each and every train trip you take.