ANNECY AND TALLOIRES

Two of the many ancient sites there are the Castle, sitting on top of a steep hill, with its Queen's Tower dating back to the 12th century, and the Palais de L'Isle, a small stone structure, shaped like a ship's prow, sitting in the middle of the canal. This latter monument, built in the 12th century as the governor's residence (later became a prison), is among the most photographed sites in France.

During the summer, plan to spend a day visiting the lake villages of Talloires, Menthon, and Veyrier. There are five lake buses that stop at these towns leaving from the center of the Old Town in Annecy. You can also take a picturesque lunch or a romantic dinner cruise on the Libellule. Phone the tourist office at 04/5060-7064 for more information. The Bateau Dupraz (04/5052-4299) offers tours of the lake with commentary and stops at Veyrier, Menthon and Talloires.

Talloires is only a 10-minute drive from Annecy and there are many little inns along the way, as well as a good selection in the town. You could arrive in the area without a reservation and find an interesting place to stay easily (with the exception of July and August probably, when the French generally vacation). Talloires is an upscale resort area with several of the hotels right on the beach.

Hotels in Annecy

Hotel du Palais de l'Isle, (3-star), 13, rue Perriere, 74000 Annecy; phone 33-04/5045-8687, fax 33-04/5051-8715, is only a block from the canal, and two blocks from the lake, just below the Castle hill. Small (26 rooms), simply furnished, but very comfortable. Bathrooms are modern and tiled; some bedrooms have wood floors, and there is an elevator. Parking is provided free overnight in a public lot about a block away, but you must pay during the day. Singles with shower $49 to $65, doubles $65 to $87; breakfast $9. New Email : palisle Web site : http://www.hoteldupalaisdelisle.com

NN L'Hotel du Chateau, (2-star) 16, Rampe du Chateau, 74000 Annecy; phone: 33-04/5045-2766; fax 33-04/5052-7526. The location is, as address suggests, three-quarters of the way up the steep ramp to the Castle. The 16 rooms are simply furnished and comfortable. All have bathrooms with showers. There are some parking spaces in front of the hotel and overflow parking is just above in the castle parking lot. Since sightseeing is done mostly on foot, we would only recommend this hotel for those who would not find it difficult to climb a steep hill. Single is $42 and double is $49.

Elena