Inspired by your plans, Catherine and I beat you to it - but you get
the benefit of our debugging!
Just a few hints based on our trip to Naples # the deal from Alitalia
is really good!
>From the airport to the Domitiana, the cheapest and most direct way
is to take the special airport bus (fixed fair of 2# valid for 90
minutes on all transportation). It leaves every 30 minutes on the
half hour. Then get off at Piazza Garibaldi (it's the main bus
terminal and the first stop) and take the 152 bus. It goes right
along Viale Kennedy and you get off at Edenlandia (an amusement
park). The Domitiana is across the street. A cab ride will cost about
25#. And the hotel is pretty good # we've stayed in far worse.
My web search showed the Domitiana to be about 500m from the Campi
Flegrei metro stop. Caution # they're using new math for this one;
it's about 3 times as far. But it's only 100m from Edenlandia station
on the Cumana line. We found that to be the most direct route into
Central Naples (one-way tickets 0,77#, again valid for 90 mins on all
transportation). But the terminus (Montesanto) is down a back street #
you'll never find it if you don't know where it is, so take your
first trip starting at Edenlandia and then take note of how you get
to the main street (Toledo). I've never noticed it before, but
although the cars drive on the right, the trains are on the left #
I'd always thought the trains were on the right too.
Unfortunately, this line doesn't run after 10:00 p.m. # in fact it
stops to Edenlandia before then, although you can get a connection to
Mostra until 10:00 (it's the station before, and very close to the
subway Campi Flegrei; i.e. 15 min walk). The subway runs to at least
10:30, but stops before 11:00. The closest metro stop to Domitiana is
Cavalleggeiri Aosta (on Line 2), but it's a `can't get there from
here' deal. The Cumana line blocks all road traffic, so you have to
cross it (at Edenlandia) using a pedestrian bridge (40-50 steps).
Then the metro is about 200m east of the bridge down a side street
(near a Eurospar supermarket). Again, I suggest you try this in
daylight first! You can also switch between Cumana and Metro at
Montesanto. The metro is about 200m North of the train (but you can't
see one from the other # have to jog around buildings).
And a taxi from `downtown' Naples to Domitiana will cost around 10#
(about 12# after 10pm # there's a surcharge).
I know you've done your research, so won't add to Marco's list except
to say our favourite sights were the National Archaeological Museum
(rainy day destination) and the Cappella San Severo (spectacular
sculptures, but 5# admission).
For food # you'll get tired of Pizza, so my recommendation is Taverna
Dell'Arte on rampe San Giovanni Maggiore (approach from
Mezzocannone). But this is `authentic' rustic food. No pizzas, but
sausages and meatballs (best I've ever had). And it's packed.
Reservations essential (we got the last table on a Monday night).
Unfortunately, the area around the hotel doesn't have exciting
restaurants. The best we found was `new math 400 meters' # actually
over a kilometre away. It's off the NE corner of the square in front
of the football stadium (Campi Flegrei metro; Mostra train), on a
side street running roughly N-S (possibly via Gonzaga # we got lost
finding it) and is called Gambero Rosso (short street, maybe 150m
long; restaurant has canopy outside). No credit cards but simple fare
well prepared # the pizza was pretty good too. And wine was cheap.
I'm sure you'll take in some of Herculaneum, Pompeii and Sorrento.
They're all on the same rail line (Circumvesuviana) and the `easiest'
transfer is at Piazza Garibaldi. However, you might consider getting
on at the terminus (previous station; Garibaldi is the next stop).
Why? Because Napoli pickpockets are world famous and all the tourists
change at Garibaldi! They work in teams, and you don't stand a
chance. Our encounter was at the station. As the doors open two (at
least) push on first, then one stops and turns round immediately,
while the second blocks the way to the seats. Then the rest push on
behind you. You know it's happening but are probably 5 teamed (at
least). Then they all get off at the next station. I've no idea how
many pockets were hit, and Catherine's bag was unzipped. But we lost
nothing as all our money and valuables were in inside or hidden
pockets (the Tilley purchases just paid for themselves). You can risk
it if all your valuables are secure, but to be safe just get on a
station ahead # the terminus, where there's no rush to get on. But it
doesn't connect to the Metro. Another hint! On Saturdays and Sundays
you can get a 5# unlimited travel ticket which covers both Naples
and all SITA transportation as far as Amalfi (you connect with
the `blue' bus at Sorrento). A great deal. The Sunday service is less
frequent and Positano is pretty much shut down on Sunday, but you can
get good seats on the bus then. We got off in Positano, then
continued to Amalfi # except the road was closed because of a
landslide/falling rocks, so returned to Sorrento # not a problem!
And Capri! You'll love it or hate it. We didn't like it. VERY high
prices for the worst food on the trip. And much of it is closed down
until the `season'. Check your guidebooks for opening dates. Every
restaurant in ours was closed. On that topic, our favourite book was
Fodor's Naples, Capri and the Amalfi Coast. The 2002 edition is in
Have a great trip. We can compare notes at the next GTG.