It was early May in 1980 on a chill rainy night when we drove from Geneva to Talloires on Lake Annecy. We had spent a long day watch-shopping in Geneva. Booked way in advance, the four of us checked into l'Hostellerie du Vivier. When we came down to the large dining room overlooking the lake, we must have been in a fog of fatigue because we didn't notice that the sea of tables covered in bright pink damask had no other diners.

Soon we were into quenelles of fish, grilled lamb and potatoes au gratin, polished off with Pears Helene. It was so heavenly that when we finally raised our heads we saw a chorus of cooks beaming with delight at our enthusiasm for their food. The room obviously served large crowds of tourists during the season, but on May 4, we were the only ones.

The idea that the kitchen crew had gathered and done their very best for only four Americans has heartened me all these days.

Glad I had the opportunity to share that memory,

Jane Estus Tulsa, Oklahoma without sixteen inches of snow