i see that montmartre is getting its well-deserved criticism and praise...i live there now and adore it: if you just stop half-way up the hill (the level at which you find the cemetery) instead going all the way up to the top, it's a wonderful neighborhood. around the metro stations abbesses, lamarck-caulincourt, and place joffrin, there are tons of boutiques and yummy food shops (not that a student budget can allow much shopping) and has a lovely atmosphere; also 4 of the best restaurants i've found in paris all within a block.

also, regarding the passages and galleries, like galerie vivienne and around the opera, the surrealist poets (aragon, breton, eluard) wrote about the inpirations they found strolling through these same spots. beautiful in and of themselves, being there shortly after reading some of their poetry (especially aragon's paysan de paris, i'm sure it has been translated) is a special kick.

best, jeannine--in chilly but lovely montmartre