|Subject: Re: Paris - Cafes and neighborhoods - seeking recommendations|
We stayed in the 12th arrondissement near the Viaduc des Arts, (near the 12th) not too far from Bastille and Metro Lehru-Rollin in spring 2002. Lots of local flavour in nearby Faubourg St. Antoine with reasonably priced cafes, bistrots, wine bars along Faubourg St. Antoine and side streets. We ate in lots of different places in our 3-week stay (day-tripped a couple of times) but didn't have our own cafe. However we did eat at some wonderful bistrots. Here are two links with information about this area: http://tinyurl.com/2jls6 http://tinyurl.com/2hugb (The second one is from Jack's travel page, a must-see for anyone planning a Paris trip.)
Two bistrots we enjoyed were: A La Biche Au Bois, 45, av Ledru Rollin. Wonderful food, closely packed tables, friendly staff, moderate prices, neighbourhood feel. We ate there twice. Recommended. Le Square Trousseau, 1 rue Antoine Vollon. Belle Epoque 19th century decor. Good food. A bit more upmarket (no prix-fixe menu). Recommended. L#Ebauchoir at 45 rue Citeaux. Wonderful 12 euro meals (including wine). A genuine neighbourhood cafe. Recommended by Jack. One that we found ourselves! Le Mange Tout at the corner of Jules Cezar at 24 boulevard de la Bastille (01-43-43-95-15). Family-run restaurant (I believe), wonderful Auvergnat food. Friendly. Moderate prices.
Here's something from Jack about a wine bar nearby in the Marche d'Aligre: http://www.jack-travel.com/Paris/ParisHtml/Paris_Hidden_Baron_Rouge.htm
This area is not too far from the Marais (walking distance) and you can enjoy the more upmarket cafes under the arcades of Place des Vosges.
Another area you might like is one that Rick Steves likes: Contrescarpe on the Left Bank. We wandered through there on a sunny day and the cafes were bustling with families and tourists. A couple of good cafes on Place de la Contrescarpe.
We lashed out and had coffee and cake at Cafe Marly overlooking the I.M. Pei glass entrance to the Louvre. Not an everyday event - snobby waiter, high prices, but fun to do once. Not what you're looking for but you might consider it once!
Frances Toronto, Canada