|Subject: Paris notes - just returned|
We went to Paris at the spur of the moment and had a fabulous time. We did not see that many American tourists, but there were loads of American college kids. We experienced no anti-American sentiment - In fact, twice during our map research on streets, we were approached by French people who asked if they could help us!
I won't list anything obvious, but I will tell you what was happening while we were there.
Paris is celebrating the year of China, and all over Paris there are Chinese exhibits! All tourist information centers can print up the month for you of any museum information, exhibitions and musical venues. Just ask them to do so!
Anne from Virginia gave me a wonderful website that lists all the events in Paris. http://www.paris.org/Calendar/ She also gave me this one: http://www.metropoleparis.com/2001/619/619scene.html
One that I found for music is: http://tinyurl.com/ywdvt
Here are some of the highlights of the exhibits that we visited:
Louvre: There are two wonderful exhibitions at the moment Fragonard's drawings and etchings and Primitive Art of artists who lived in Paris during the 1600's.
until May 17th
Pinacotheque: - many never before seen paintings and drawings from Jacqueline Picasso's private collection 30 bis, rue de Paradis 75010 -- closes 3/23/04 -- There is a lovely café for lunch or tea. http://www.pinacotheque.com
Pompidou Center - Joan Miro- Major works from 1020 - 1920 - wonderful exhibit - but very huge. Wear comfortable shoes. Very interesting works. -- Until June 28 -- (This museum opens at 11!)
Musee de la Vie Romantique - A shuttered, provincial house that was once Ary Scheffer's home - There is an exhibition of La famille Rouart This is a wonderful house in a courtyard that houses works by the Rouart family and their lineage. It's rather amazing with the Berthe Marisot/ Manet connection, etc. It's worth the trip. Metro: Pigalle - 5 min walk from the stop.
Guimet Musee - fabulous museum devoted to Asiatic arts and antiquities. We saw a terrific Confucious exhibit that has been carried over into March, but I am not sure how long it will be there. tel - 01 56 52 53 00 -- The lunch room downstairs has all Asian food and is delicious.
The Cluny Museum -- Part of its rooms are closed (St Chapelle windows and some jewelry) for renovation, but The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries are always worth a visit -- Thermes de Cluny - tel: 01 53 73 76 16, Metro or RER - Saint-Michel, Cluny-La Sorbonne)
Musee de la Musique at Cite: tel: 01 44 84 46 46- Metro Port de Pantin - Again we visited this extraordinary museum. It is outstanding, with earphones to hear the instruments as you stand in front of them. What a treat!!!
Le Bon Saint Porcain - Still good but very tiny - in the St Sulpice area -- 10, bis, rue Servandoni (also in the 6th) tel: 01 43 54 93 63 Brasserie Fernand- 13, rue Guisade 75006 - 01 43 54 61 47 - very fun and warm and friendly with good food always. One of our perennial favorites every time we visit Paris.
Auberge du Clou - Metro: Pigalle tel: 01 48 78 22 48 - excellent with enclosed sidewalk in the winter and a charming bar and room downstairs as well as a small upstair dining room. Everyone is friendly and the food is delicious. If you're visiting the Musee de la Vie Romantique, this is a good place to eat.
Aux Trois Mailletz - Metro St Michel - (diagonally opposite the entrance to St Julien Le Pauvre Church) This caberet/restaurant has a piano player during dinner,and at 11 pm there is a caberet downstairs. We did not go to the caberet, but people said it was wonderful. Piano/bar: tel: 01 43 43 00 79, Caberet: 01 43 54 42 94.
Le Bistrot de l'Universite- 40, rue de l'Universite 75007 - tel: 01 42 61 26 64 - excellent traditional French food. - Very tiny and friendly. For whatever it's worth, we had very unhappy experiences at Chez Rene -- Blvd. St. Germain, and Balazar Bistrot -- I realize that we all have different tastes, but we would never return to either. The food was not up to their reputations and the service at Balazar (near the Sorbonne) was like that of a fast-food restaurant. Sorry.
We always love Paris and can't wait to return again. Regards to all, Susie, Newton, MA