It is my understanding that the only visitors allowed in Libya now are tour groups. The US State Department still advises Americans not to visit, citing the country's sponsorship of terrorism.

However, despite that warning, a travel writer from the Los Angeles Times ventured to Libya earlier this year as part of the first American tour groups since travel sanctions were lifted. I remember her article because the photos were so striking. The tour included trips to Tripoli, Sabratha, Leptis Magna and hiking into the desert.

She described rudimentary accommodations and unsophisticated tourist services. But she still raved about her visit, "There's a prevailing air of naivete and freshness unlike any I've ever felt." She likened Libya to China in the 1970s - unspoiled.

I am unable to send a link to the article since you have to pay to obtain it now. But I do have a copy that saved when it was free that I will e-mail you directly.

Mark in Los Angeles