|Subject: New restaurants we tried in Paris|
We just recently got back from Paris... well, actually, it
was about a week ago, but we've been recovering from a bug
we picked up -- probably on the plane. First, I wanted to
let you know about some of the new restaurants we tried, and
I'll send the rest of the trip report in a separate e-mail.
We went to Le Coup Chou, right down the street from the Panthéon! It was very small, but really lovely, the food was good and not too expensive, and the staff was very friendly. I wouldn't say that it was the least expensive restaurant that we ate in, but mainly because we ordered a bottle of wine and a large bottle of mineral water, along with the menu. We both ordered a Salade Frisée aux Lardons from the entrée list. I had the Confit de Canard, and Bob had the lamb. I ordered tarte tatin with crème fraiche for dessert.... I think he had sorbet. We ordered the 24 Euro menu, and I thought I remembered that dessert was included, but I don't see it on the website. The menu may be a little different in the restaurant or we ordered dessert anyway. At any rate, it was very enjoyable.
Another restaurant we really enjoyed was Bistro de Breteuile. They couldn't have been nicer there, and the first thing we sat down, they handed us a Kir and a dish of herbed olives -- love those olives! The menu was 32 euros and included an entrée, the plat, dessert, coffee, though I don't drink coffee, so I ordered tea. I figured it would show up extra on the bill, but it didn't. The meal also includes, at that price, a full bottle of wine for 2 people, and I believe they have half bottles for 1 person... not sure, though. It was my favorite meal in Paris! We both had foie gras for an appetizer, I had scallops St. Jacques for my meal, which came with a baked tomato topped with some type of soufflé, and crème brulée for dessert, with tea. Bob had 3 little lamb chops, and a small amount of potatoes for a side dish. The wine was a Georges Duboeuf Côtes du Rhône. We had a good meal, in a lovely setting, and great service. We were never without something to eat or drink, and we never felt rushed. I think we were the only Americans in the place. I highly recommend it! The walk back up the avenue de Breteuile was much more relaxing and a beautiful one, with a view of Les Invalides. It wouldn't have been so nice, had the weather not cleared up for our last day, but it was sunny and warm that day. Oh, by the way, we noticed a taxi sign right in front, but it was such a nice day that we wanted to walk back. It rained every day, but our last day, and we wanted to enjoy the beautiful weather and the view. There are picnic benches along the way, and we sat down to rest once. It's a very pretty area.
We also ate at Fish -- delicious salmon, some of the best I've ever had, and the service is very friendly. It was the most expensive restaurant we ate in, though. They say on their menu that they "appreciate tips", so we tipped 15%, added to our bill of 96 euros. Since it's owned by an American and a New Zealander, we weren't sure how much the waiters get paid, so didn't want to stiff them. Their bill didn't say "service compris", so we just tipped the rate that's usually included. By the way, we made that reservation after we arrived in Paris, on Tuesday, and it was no problem to get a reservation for Friday night.
The first night we ate at Aux Charpentiers, and it was good. It reminded me of Le Perraudin, near the Sorbonne... very traditional. I had roast chicken there, but don't remember much else about it. Bob really liked it, but I need to go back when I'm not suffering so much from jet lag :-) It was very convenient to our hotel.
For fast food, Cosi was the best that we had... we also ate at Lina's Sandwiches, but liked Cosi much better. Bob was disappointed that we didn't get to go back there. The bread is great, and it wraps around a variety of fillings. We both had tomato and fresh mozzarella with arugala and fresh basil, with olive oil. They had bottled beer and soft drinks. You carry your tray upstairs to a small dining room, playing classical music. Wonderful! For dessert, we went to Amarino for a gelato cone.... mmmmm. It was so good, we had it 2 more times! If you mix flavors, they make it into a rose. I always had the Limone (lemon) Incredible! Bob sampled different flavors each time, and he loved every one. It's a new favorite!
We stopped in the Tea Caddy, an English style tearoom that is so much nicer inside than it looks outside. It's very small, but so charming, with leaded glass windows... giving you an old fashioned view. We saw no Americans there, only French -- great deep dish apple pie, with a wonderful crust, served with crème fraiche. It was a very nice stop, especially as it had been poring down rain, and the hot pots of tea were very welcome.
We went down to Montparnasse and wanted to eat at Le Petit Josselin, but it was Pâques Lundi, and it was closed. However, we tried another restaurant called St. Malô, which we enjoyed, and it was very inexpensive. Bob had a huge, white long haired dog, lying under his chair, and we felt very safe to put our bags down :-) We each ordered a gallette -- Bob had ham and cheese, and I had mushrooms and cheese. I tasted his, and though mine was good, his was better. We had a bottle of Cidre.... it was good, not too sweet and good with the food. We didn't know which one to order, and the French couple next to us were very helpful.... they pointed to the one they'd ordered on the menu, and they also told us that the dog was "le chien de maison." I had a crêpe de beurre et de sucre... butter and sugar crêpe, and it was delicious. We liked the St. Malô, but we'd still like to try Le Petit Josselin to compare. It was just a couple of doors down the street from St. Malô.
**The Tea Caddy 14, rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre 75005 tel: 01 43 54 15 56 Metro: Cluny
**Amorino (Gelato) 4, rue de Buci 75006
Le Bistrot de Breteuil 3, Place de Breteuil 75007 tel: 01 45 67 07 27
Le Coupe-Chou 9, rue de Lanneau 75005 tel: 01 46 33 68 69
Cosi 54, rue de Seine 75006 tel: 01 46 33 35 36
Fish 69, rue de Seine 75006 tel: 01 43 54 34 69
Aux Charpentiers 10, rue Mabillon 75006 tel: 01 43 26 30 05
Lina's Sandwiches 22 rue de Saint Pères 75007 tel: 01 40 20 42 78
St Malô 53, rue du Montparnasse 75014 tel: 01 43 20 87 19
Best, Sandy in Illinois