Subject: Paradise Lost (long report)
Nov. 26th 2005 Hello Again,

Since I last wrote things have taken a turn for the worse. On Tuesday, Tony took a flying (literally) leap from the glorious rice terrace of Sayan and went head over heals, landing heavily on his back left rib cage.

Fortunately, we had an un-appointed guide, or maybe unfortunately because if it weren't for him we would have been unable to navigate the terrain and turned back. However, he did manage to get Tony out of the gully he had landed in and up to a house on the edge of a village not too far away. From there our lovely 'guide', who had endeared himself to me by never allowing me the opportunity to miss a big snake, ran to get his motor cycle and along with a friend came to rescue us. We rode back to Ubud in style and in a torrential downpour.

Neither Tony nor the camera he was carrying was damaged!

The doctor confirmed what we suspected, very bad bruising and possibly tearing of muscle but no broken bones. Maybe a cracked rib but not broken for sure. He is still in considerable pain and unable to lie down, sleeping in a teak steamer lounger and not at all comfortable. Once we get him settled into it he is unable to move a muscle.

Looking on the bright side the muscles should repair themselves in time with no lasting effects. Thank God he didn't land on his spine or break a limb. We have stayed at Oka Wati's rather than move around the island. It's a great place to recuperate. Madame Oka Wati comes every day at breakfast time to check on the patient and our houseboy Gede is a treasure.

I choose the right place to be, the upper level has a very large veranda, it is quiet and private so Tony can stay in his pyjamas all day if he can't face getting dressed. I will leave the bathing arrangements to your imagination but I can assure you it is not a pretty sight. So there have been no more jaunts, dance performances, festivals, cremations, or trips to the Northern mountains, but from our perch here in the tops of the palm trees we can see the birds, feathered and otherwise, coming and going around the pool and watch Mount Agung when he honours us with his great presence through the clouds. The sky is a perfect blue with fluffy white clouds, it should all have been perfect.

When not on our veranda we are watching $1.50 rip off DVD's of current movies on the laptop and last night all three series of 'Dinner Ladies'; a Brit sit com which we brought from home.

On Wednesday I went to get my teeth whitened and am thrilled with the results. It is one of those procedures which I think one would avoid if one knew in advance what was involved. Still I didn't and now it's done and quite lovely, I hope it lasts long enough to justify the price. I also picked up my glasses with the new prescription lenses. It's so nice to be able to see properly again.

Our flight to Singapore is the day after tomorrow (Monday) and Tony is convinced he is well enough to travel, or will be at his current rate of progress. He still can't walk more than a few steps because breathing is too painful. I intend to get him a wheelchair at Denpasar, Singapore and Melbourne airports. It has always been my ambition to get preferential treatment around the airport. He says he will manage without (stoic Brit, stiff upper lip etc.) but I am determined. For one thing I can't manage all the carry on. The cameras and laptop weigh a ton, good job they don't weigh it before boarding!

I am off to have another 90-minute massage and herbal petal filled bath at Milano's. I think I have earned it being Tony's 'block and tackle' for the past 5 days. Then I will have a haircut. Can't pass up a $4 haircut after all. Oka Wati and friends think a massage and traditional healing will buck Tony right up but we are sticking with western style medicine and drugs for now.

Hopefully the next message from me will be from Melbourne.

Regards Sue and Tony Waterloo ON, currently in Castlemaine Victoria Australia